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Doors, Windows & Hardware

Common Door & Window Mistakes: What Buyers Regret After Building

Wrong sizes, poor hardware, no fly screens, bad placement and other costly regrets.

5 min read·Compare My Build — Independent Resource· Updated July 2026

Cost estimates only: Any building or upgrade figures in this guide are indicative, not fixed prices or quotes. Costs and inclusions vary by project, supplier, location and time. Confirm current written prices and specifications directly with your builder, suppliers and relevant trades.

Key Takeaways
  • Standard-height doors in high-ceilinged homes look squat and proportionally wrong
  • No fly screens means windows can't be opened for ventilation without insects entering
  • Poor window placement — not considering orientation — leads to overheating or dark rooms
  • Cheap door hardware feels loose and wears quickly — quality hardware is worth the upgrade
  • No cavity slider planning means sliding doors can't be added without rebuilding walls

Door and window mistakes are expensive to fix after construction — windows and doors are built into the wall structure, and changing them means demolition and reconstruction. Learning from the common regrets of other buyers helps you avoid the same pitfalls and ensure your doors and windows work for your home.

Standard Doors in High-Ceilinged Homes

If you've upgraded to high ceilings (2550mm+), standard 2040mm doors look squat and proportionally wrong. The gap above the door is too large, making the doors look undersized. Many buyers regret not upgrading to 2340mm tall doors to match their high ceilings. If your ceilings are 2550mm or higher, budget for taller doors.

No Fly Screens

Without fly screens, you can't open windows for ventilation without insects entering. Many buyers assume fly screens are standard, then discover they're not included (or only included on some windows). Ensure every operable window has a fly screen. If security is also a concern, upgrade to security screens on ground-floor windows and doors.

Poor Window Placement

Window placement mistakes affect comfort and energy efficiency:

  • Large west-facing windows — cause overheating in summer; need shading or double glazing
  • No north-facing windows in living areas — missed opportunity for passive solar heating and natural light
  • Windows that don't open (fixed) in rooms that need ventilation — bathrooms, laundries, kitchens
  • Windows too small — rooms feel dark and enclosed; inadequate natural light
  • Windows too large on south walls — heat loss in winter; cold draughts

Other Common Regrets

  • Cheap door hardware — handles that feel loose, wobble or wear quickly; quality hardware is worth the upgrade
  • No cavity slider planning — wanted sliding doors later but can't add cavity sliders without rebuilding walls
  • Hollow core doors throughout — poor sound insulation between rooms; solid core doors recommended for bedrooms and bathrooms
  • No security doors — can't leave the front or back door open for ventilation safely
  • Wrong door swing — doors that hit furniture, block corridors or open into each other
  • No deadlocks on external doors — inadequate security; quality deadlocks recommended
  • Inconsistent hardware finishes — mismatched handles, tapware and hardware that look unintentional
  • No window in the pantry or laundry — dark, unventilated utility spaces
  • Sliding doors without security screens — can't be left open for ventilation safely
  • Door hardware that doesn't match tapware — chrome handles with matte black taps looks unintentional

Tip

Review your house plans with a door and window checklist. Mark each door's swing direction and ensure it doesn't hit furniture or block corridors. Check that every operable window has a fly screen. Verify that high-ceilinged rooms have tall doors. Ensure cavities are planned for any sliding doors. These checks during the planning stage prevent expensive mistakes after construction.
Questions to Ask Your Builder
  • Are fly screens included on all operable windows, or only some?
  • For my ceiling height, should I upgrade to 2340mm doors?
  • Which rooms need cavity sliding doors, and are the wall cavities planned?
  • What door hardware finish is standard, and can I coordinate it with my tapware?
Common Mistakes to Avoid
  • Standard 2040mm doors in 2550mm+ ceiling homes — look squat and undersized
  • No fly screens — can't open windows for ventilation without insects
  • No cavity slider planning — can't add sliding doors without rebuilding walls
  • Cheap door hardware that feels loose and wears quickly
  • Inconsistent hardware finishes that look unintentional across the home
Builder Tips
  • Review house plans with a door and window checklist before signing the contract
  • Mark each door's swing direction to ensure it doesn't hit furniture or block corridors
  • Budget for solid core doors in bedrooms and bathrooms for sound insulation
  • Plan cavity sliders during pre-construction — they can't be retrofitted
  • Coordinate all metal finishes (handles, tapware, cabinetry, shower) for a cohesive look

Door Selection Guide

Choose the right doors to avoid these mistakes.

Read the Guide

Frequently Asked Questions

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